Life Is Like Surfing

Surfing has always been alluring to me. Yet somehow I haven’t done it much. I blame not living near the ocean. But then again there’s always something to blame for the things we don’t do. The first time I surfed was 2006 in Daytona Beach. I almost got up once. It was a failure by most standards. The second time was ten years later in Montauk – two days before writing this.

Day one of my second bout with surfing consisted of me just paddling around trying to learn the board. The second day I started to try and catch some waves. I got to my knees. Then to my feet for one glorious ride. It felt good. Really good.

Ever since hiking the Camino de Santiago I find myself looking for life lessons to manifest themselves physically. I believe they become more visceral and deeply rooted that way. I found that in surfing.

This trip was well timed because lately I’ve been feeling very discouraged. Doubting the future of where I want my career to go. Not doubting myself or my abilities, but rather doubting whether I will ever get the opportunities I need to fully spread my wings. To maximize my potential. It feels so out of my control. Because ultimately it is. Enter the ocean.

You can’t control a wave. All you can do is wait for it. Eighty percent of surfing consists of staring out into the ocean looking for the start of a great swell. As a beginner it’s hard to identify. Sometimes you don’t see it before it’s too late and there’s not enough time to paddle onto it. Sometimes you start paddling only to realize the tiny swell isn’t going to turn into a wave. Other times you spot a great wave with plenty of time to paddle, but there’s either too many people on it or the peak misses you – and you’re left on the outside.

It’s intimidating. Especially when there are experienced surfers flying by you nearly knocking you off your board.

But eventually the right wave comes at the right time. You go from scouting to paddling as hard as you possibly can. If all goes well, you catch the wave and relinquish control. Trying your best to stay on top of the board until the wave is done and settles back into the sea. Maybe it was the best ride of your life. Maybe you fell off shortly after popping up. Either way, you spend the next five minutes using all the strength you have to paddle against the waves back to where you started. To wait again.

And that’s life.

So you want to get better at “surfing” eh?

What you don’t do is paddle around like an angry turtle trying to catch every wave that comes into your general vicinity. You’ll wear yourself out and get nowhere.

What you don’t do is sit idle on your board all day watching the waves pass you by. You’ll never get to ride.

What you don’t do is spend a day doing all the right things only to wait two more months before you try again. You’ll never progress.

But if you spend a few hours in the water every day, watching the waves, learning to spot the good ones, waiting, and then paddling your hardest to ride them – you’ll become a surfer. You’ll never be in control. But you’ll learn how to let go and experience the best ride of your life. Then you’ll do it again.

And that’s living.